The SIEF 24th International Ethnological Food Research Conference provided an exciting interdisciplinary forum in which to discuss and reflect on the conference theme: ‘Living Eating Habits, Revitalized Foodways and the Concepts of Tradition and Food Heritage’. This volume, the outcome of that event, is, like its counterparts from the 1970s onwards, a further contribution to the history of food studies in Europe and further afield.

Living eating habits, revitalized foodways and the concepts of tradition and food heritage
Proceedings of the SIEF 24th International Ethnological Food Research Conference, Budapest, Hungary, 18–20 September 2024

ISSN 978-963-416-520-0 (Print) • ISSN 978-963-567-084-0 (Online)

DOI: https://doi.org/10.61380/978-963-567-084-0

                                               Click to enlarge image!

The images on the cover are illustrations from the studies in the volume.

Editors: Anikó Báti and Patricia Lysaght.

This publication was produced with the support of the Book and Journal Publishing Committee of the Hungarian Academy of Sciences.

Preliminary matter

Håkan Jönsson: Foreword

Anikó Báti and Patricia Lysaght: Introduction 

KEYNOTE LECTURES

Cristina Grasseni: Re-tooling Food Heritage: Revitalizing Communities and Landscapes

Ágnes Fülemile: Goulash and Governance: The Politics of Foodways in Socialist Hungary. Culinary Transformation and Everyday Life (1948–1989)

Lucy M  Long: Personal Memory, Collective Heritage, and Quandaries of Tradition: Three Appalachian Mountain Dishes

Eszter Csonka-Takács: Food Heritage: Paradigm Shift in the Implementation Practices of the 2003. UNESCO Convention for the Safeguarding of Intangible Cultural Heritage

PART I: DEALING WITH FOOD IN INSTITUTIONS AND ORGANISATIONS WORKING WITH CULTURAL HERITAGE I

Zsuzsa Szarvas: From Fireplace to Table: The Heritage of the Museum of Ethnography's Food. Collection
Melanija Belaj: Faces of Hunger. An Exhibition about (the Lack of) Food in the Ethnographic. 

Museum, Zagreb: Thoughts on Difficult Heritage and Affective Curatorship


 

Hiroko Nakazawa: Effects of the Designation of Yakimochi as an Intangible Folk Cultural. Property in Japan

PART II: FOOD AND FOODWAYS AS HERITAGE-MAKING: LOCAL DEVELOPMENT STRATEGIES AND TOURISM

Silke Bartsch: Regional Food and Ethnic Identity: Discourse on the Potential of Regional Food Campaigns

Karin Vaneker: Cross-border Cuisine: Food Culture and Heritage in the Euregio

Regina Sexton: When One Story Will Do: The Heritagisation of Wild Garlic in Ireland

Naoto Minami: Protecting and Promoting Traditional Food Culture in Contemporary Japan: Registration of Food Culture as a Cultural Property with the Agency for Cultural Affairs
PART III: THE MANIFOLD MEANINGS OF FOOD AND HERITAGE

Pál Géza Balogh: ‘Why are we stuck at the level of gomolya in cheese-making?’ The Carpathian Basin Dairy Heritage and Modern Artisanal Cheese-makers

Maja Godina Golija: Baking the Christmas Bread, Poprtnik, in Svibno, Slovenia: A Living and and Ambiguous Food Heritage

Sarah Shultz: Contesting a Changing Community with Traditional Foods: Race, Class, and Hot Chicken in Nashville, Tennessee, US

Yrsa Lindqvist: Food Recipes as Cultural Heritage and Historical Source

PART IV: GENDER, IDENTITY, ‘INVENTION’ AND FOOD HERITAGE

Olga Orlić: Foodways, Identity and Selective Tradition in Žrnovo: Representative and Forbidden Food

Levente Szilágyi: Strudli: Identity, Ethnicity and Representation among the Swabians of Szatmár

Csaba Mészáros: The Taste of Fat. Nourishing More than just the Body in Yakutia

Kristen Autret and Christopher Hollander: Adapting Traditions to Climate Change: The Impact on Indigenous Food Systems in the North American Arctic

Rogéria Campos A. Dutra: The Culture of Milk in the Rural Southeast of Minas Gerais, Brazil

Taija Kaarlenkaski: National Milk. Gender and Finnishness in the Milk Promotion Strategies of the Finnish Dairy Nutrition Council

PART V: ETHNIC, LOCAL AND TRADITIONAL FOOD: MEANINGS IN A COMPARATIVE PERSPECTIVE

Anikó Báti: Food as Messenger: On the Example of Slovak Cuisine in Hungary

Katalin Juhász: Food Heritage and Food Rituals as an Indispensable Element of Contemporary ‘Crossover Folk Customs’: The Example of Csömör (Hungary)

Ekaterina Protassova and Maria Yelenevskaya: Russophone Immigrant Foodways as Markers of Cultural Adaptation and Hybrid Identities

Zsolt Szilágyi: From Geriin Buuz to Fine Dining: The Changes in Mongolian Food Culture from the 1990s to the Present

PART VI: FOOD HERITAGE IN TIMES OF CRISIS

Håkan Jönsson: Restrictions as Culinary Heritage: A Study of Restaurant Politics in Sweden

Agnieszka Pawłowska-Mainville: Harvesting Gold from Trees: Tree-beekeeping as an Element of Forest Food Systems and Culinary Heritage in Poland

Antonia Matalas and Anastasia Ntantou: Health Claims for Traditional Fermented Foods

James I. Deutsch and Fae R. Rauber: Foodways in the Hobo Jungles: Heritage and Tradition among the Unhoused in the United States in the Late Nineteenth and Early Twentieth Centuries

PART VII: DEALING WITH FOOD IN INSTITUTIONS AND ORGANISATIONS WORKING WITH CULTURAL HERITAGE II

Zsuzsanna Nagyné Batári: Food Heritage in an Open Air Museum Context: Research, Representation and Interpretation: A Case Study of the Hungarian Open Air Museum

Fruzsina Arkhely: Gastronomy as Intangible Cultural Heritage: The ‘Miller’s Wafer’ Tradition in Borsodnádasd

Erika Vass: The Food Heritage of the Transylvanian Armenians

Zoltán Ottó Fülöp: An Exhibition to Quench Cultural Thirst: The Soda Water Collection at the Szeged Water Tower from the Perspective of the Heritagisation of Gastronomic Goods

VIII. LIST OF CONTRIBUTORS

IX. INTERNATIONAL COMMISSION FOR ETHNOLOGICAL FOOD RESEARCH

Maja Godina Golija: Three successful and fruitful decades of work: Professor Patricia Lysaght as President of the SIEF Food Research Working Group

International Commission for Ethnological Food Research: Conferences, Themes and Publications (1970–2025)

 The entire volume can be downloaded here (Pdf).